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Rise of Far-Right Symbols in German Fashion

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Germany’s far-right movement is gaining traction in various regions, with researchers noting an increased boldness among supporters to express their views in public, often through subtle means without overt political symbols. The Alternative for Germany (AfD) rallies have seen the adoption of coded language on everyday items like sneakers and T-shirts, using logos from brands such as New Balance and Lonsdale as veiled references to nationalist and Nazi ideologies. This tactic holds significance in Germany, where the use of Nazi symbols is legally restricted.

According to Gideon Botsch from Potsdam University, attendees at these events often display signs linked to extreme right-wing beliefs, with some utilizing explicit neo-Nazi symbolism while others opt for more discreet references. For instance, New Balance sneakers are repurposed to symbolize “nationalist” with the large “N” logo, while Lonsdale sportswear can spell out NSDA, an abbreviation associated with Germany’s National Socialist Party, when positioned a certain way.

Sophie Scheuble of the Institute for Strategic Dialogue highlights that while German law prohibits overt Nazi symbols, the use of covert signals is permissible, leading to a rise in the adoption of subtle codes recognizable only to those familiar with their meaning. The recent update to Saxony-Anhalt’s intelligence handbook on far-right symbols underscores the shift towards less prosecutable forms of expression within extremist circles.

The AfD, once a marginal party, has evolved into a prominent force and is poised to secure victory in the upcoming Saxony-Anhalt state election, marking a historic milestone in German politics post-World War II. Fabian Wichmann notes a blurred line emerging between hardcore neo-Nazis and the broader populist right, with neo-Nazi elements endorsing the AfD and viewing its success as a step towards their ideological objectives.

While wearing brands like New Balance and Lonsdale is not indicative of neo-Nazi affiliation for all individuals, researchers emphasize the broader acceptance of displaying these symbols openly within the far-right community. The changing political landscape in Germany has emboldened far-right supporters to showcase their allegiance more visibly, reflecting a perceived shift in societal norms favoring their viewpoints.

Despite companies like New Balance distancing themselves from far-right associations, Lonsdale has encountered ongoing challenges combating its appropriation by extremist factions. Ralf Elfering acknowledges the resurgence of Lonsdale among far-right extremists since 2024, prompting the brand to sever ties with retailers engaging in extremist promotion. Brands like Thor Steinar, known for its explicit far-right imagery, serve as clearer indicators of one’s affiliation with extremist circles, distinguishing themselves from the more covert symbols employed by others.

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